In a smoky bar in the Highland city of Cusco, two rather cosmopolitan Limeans tried to explain contemporary Peru to me. So far, what with the Cusquena, the Pisco sours and loud music, their attempts were a little incoherent, if enthusiastic. Yet their stories compounded my early impressions of Peru as a country seething with variety and fusion - of nationalities, cultures, histories and religions, all intermingling with each other.